The first layers stick out like a lip around the part (the “elephant's foot”), and lids or fits won't go on at the bottom.
It happens on any FDM printer. Setting names are Bambu Studio's: in Orca Slicer almost all have the same name, and PrusaSlicer or Cura usually have an equivalent.
Where do I start?
Two questions to sort out what to check. It's a guide, not a sure fix: every printer and every filament is different.
Check in this order
- The printerIf it printed fine yesterday and not today, it's almost never the profile. Check the plate, the nozzle and the room: printing at 15 °C is not the same as at 30 °C.
- The filamentA spool that has soaked up moisture gives strings, bubbles and brittle parts. Dry it before changing settings, and pick that filament's profile in the program.Filament pages
- The quick checksThe “First” list below: it's the fastest to check.Go to “First”
- The slicerOnly now, the settings below, in order. Change one thing, print a small test and compare. If you change three at once and it gets fixed, you won't know which one did it.Go to the settings
Check in this order
- The quick checksThe “First” list below: it's the fastest to check.Go to “First”
- The filamentA spool that has soaked up moisture gives strings, bubbles and brittle parts. Dry it before changing settings, and pick that filament's profile in the program.Filament pages
- The slicerOnly now, the settings below, in order. Change one thing, print a small test and compare. If you change three at once and it gets fixed, you won't know which one did it.Go to the settings
Check in this order
- The quick checksThe “First” list below: it's the fastest to check.Go to “First”
- The previewStep through the slicer preview layer by layer: that's where you spot missing supports and odd areas in this part.
- The slicerOnly now, the settings below, in order. Change one thing, print a small test and compare. If you change three at once and it gets fixed, you won't know which one did it.Go to the settings
First
- It's almost always a first layer that's squashed too much: the nozzle ended up very close to the plate. If the first-layer bead comes out translucent, with burrs, or the nozzle drags it, re-level the bed (or check the Z offset) and make sure the plate type chosen in the program is the one on the printer. Compensate only after that.
Then, in the slicer (in this order)
- Elephant foot compensationProcess › QualityShrinks only the first layer. Print a block and measure it at the top and at the bottom: half the difference is your value.
- Bed on the Textured PEI PlateFilament › FilamentA bed that's too hot softens the base and spreads it: lower it 5 °C in your plate's row.
Tried everything and it's still the same? Calibrate your filament with the 8 tests, or write to us with a photo.