DeslicebetaES

All settings

All 335 settings, grouped as in the Bambu Studio panel; almost all of them also exist in Orca Slicer, PrusaSlicer or Cura, sometimes under another name. Open one to see what it does, when to change it, and a drawing that reacts to the value.

Process › Quality › Layer height

  • Layer heightHow thick each slice of plastic is. Thinner means more detail and more time; thicker means a faster print with more visible steps.0.2 mm
  • First layer heightHow thick the layer that sticks to the bed is. A little thicker forgives an uneven plate and grips better.0.2 mm
  • Mixed color sublayerFor mixed-color filament: it splits each layer into thinner sublayers that alternate colors, so the blend looks more even. If you don't use that feature, it does nothing.No

Process › Quality › Line width

  • Line widthHow wide each line of plastic comes out when a line type has no width of its own. Wider gives stronger, faster walls; thinner gives more detail.0.42 mm
  • First layer line widthHow wide the lines of the first layer are. Making them a little wider than the rest helps the part grip the plate.0.5 mm
  • First layer infill line widthHow wide the lines that fill the first layer are (sparse infill, solid infill and surface), without touching that layer's walls or supports. At 0 it uses the first layer width.0.5 mm
  • Outer wall line widthHow wide the line that forms the visible face of the part is. Thinner gives better detail; wider is sturdier but less crisp.0.42 mm
  • Inner wall line widthHow wide the hidden walls are, the ones between the outer face and the infill. It's usually a bit wider to add body and save time.0.45 mm
  • Top surface line widthHow wide the lines of the last layer, the top face, are. Thinner gives a smoother, more closed surface; wider is faster.0.42 mm
  • Infill line widthHow wide the lines of the inner infill are. Wider gives stronger, faster infill; thinner gives lighter infill.0.45 mm
  • Internal solid infill line widthHow wide the hidden solid layers are: the ones right below the top surface or above the bottom one, and the small areas the slicer fills in completely.0.42 mm
  • Support line widthHow wide the lines of the supports and of their contact layer with the part are. Wider gives sturdier supports that are harder to remove.0.42 mm

Process › Quality › Seam

  • Seam positionWhere each wall loop starts and ends. That spot leaves a mark; this setting chooses whether you line the marks up, scatter them or send them to the back.Aligned
  • Seam away from overhangsWhen the corner chosen for the seam ends up hanging in the air, it moves the seam to a supported stretch. Fewer bumps and fewer loops that start over nothing.No
  • Seam gapHow early, before closing the loop, the nozzle stops pushing out plastic. A tiny gap soaks up the leftover plastic and the seam bulges less.15 %
  • Smart scarf seamLets the slicer decide where to use the scarf: only on smooth loops, which have no corners to hide the seam in.Yes
  • Smart scarf angle thresholdThe angle above which a corner no longer works as a hiding spot and the loop gets a scarf. Higher means less scarf; lower means more.155°
  • Scarf around the entire loopStretches the scarf ramp over the whole loop instead of a few millimeters. It's rarely worth it.No
  • Scarf stepsHow many steps the scarf ramp is split into. More steps give a smoother ramp and a print file (G-code) with more instructions.10
  • Scarf on inner wallsApplies the scarf seam to the inner loops too, not just the outer one.Yes
  • Override the filament's scarfIn Bambu Studio, each filament decides the scarf seam. With this box checked the process takes over, and its four scarf settings show up for you to control.No
  • Scarf seamTurns the joint of each wall loop from a vertical cut into a ramp: the end rides up over the start and the seam nearly disappears.None
  • Scarf start heightHow high the scarf ramp starts, relative to the layer. At 0 it starts from the very bottom; at 100% it becomes a normal seam.10%
  • Scarf gapHow much the loop is shortened when it closes with a scarf, to leave room for leftover plastic. It's the same idea as “Seam gap”, but applied to the scarf ramp.0 mm/%
  • Scarf lengthHow many millimeters long the scarf seam ramp is. Longer gives a smoother joint; 0 turns it off.10 mm
  • Wipe speedHow fast the nozzle “wipes itself” by dragging over the freshly printed wall before moving somewhere else.80 %
  • Wipe speed by line typeMakes the wipe run at the same speed as the line that was just printed, instead of a percentage of travel speed.Yes

Process › Quality › Precision

  • Gap closing radiusWhen the model is cut into layers, cracks narrower than twice this radius get filled in automatically. It fixes models with tiny errors without touching the design.0.049 mm
  • ResolutionHow far the nozzle's path can stray from the model's exact shape, in millimeters. Smaller gives truer curves but a heavier file; larger leaves visible facets.0.012 mm
  • Arc fittingTurns curves made of many tiny straight segments into real arcs (the G2 and G3 commands in the G-code). The print head moves more smoothly, vibrates less and the file is smaller.Yes
  • X-Y hole compensationMakes every hole in the part bigger or smaller without touching the outer outline. It helps screws, pins and magnets fit.0 mm
  • X-Y contour compensationMakes the outer edge of the part bigger or smaller without touching the holes. It helps one part fit inside another or measure what it should.0 mm
  • Automatic circle compensationCorrects only the size of round holes and outlines up to 50 mm, using data Bambu measured for each filament. No measuring or calibrating on your part.No
  • Manual circle offsetOn top of automatic circle compensation, it tightens or loosens the fit by a few hundredths of a millimeter. Positive is tighter; negative is looser.0 mm
  • Elephant foot compensationShrinks the outline of the first layer a little so it doesn't stick out. Without it, the bottom of the part ends up wider than the rest, like an elephant's foot.0.075 mm
  • Precise wallAdjusts the spacing between the outer and inner walls so the outer one lands exactly on the model's edge. Truer outer dimensions and more even layers.No
  • Precise Z heightAdjusts the last few layers so the part measures exactly what the model says, even if its height isn't a multiple of the layer height.No

Process › Quality › Ironing

  • IroningAfter printing the top face, the nozzle passes over it again while releasing almost no plastic and “irons” the lines flat. That face comes out smooth and shiny, at the cost of extra time.No ironing
  • Ironing patternThe path the nozzle follows while ironing: back-and-forth lines, rings that follow the edge, or a spiral. It changes how the ironing marks look, not how much it smooths.Rectilinear
  • Ironing speedHow fast the nozzle moves while ironing the surface. Slower smooths better; faster barely softens the plastic.30 mm/s
  • Ironing flowHow much plastic the nozzle releases while ironing, as a percentage of what it releases on a normal layer. Too little won't fill the grooves; too much leaves the surface lumpy.10%
  • Ironing line spacingThe distance between one pass and the next while the nozzle irons. Closer lines mean each spot gets ironed several times and comes out smoother, but it takes longer.0.15 mm
  • Ironing insetHow far the ironing stays away from the edge of the surface. It keeps plastic from piling up against the wall and forming a ridge.0.21 mm
  • Ironing directionThe angle of the ironing lines compared with the lines of the top face. Going diagonally closes the grooves better.45°

Process › Quality › Wall generator

  • Wall generatorHow the walls are drawn: “Classic” uses lines that are always the same width; “Arachne” narrows or widens them to fill each area.Classic
  • Wall transition angleWith Arachne: in areas that narrow into a wedge, up to what angle the center gets filled with extra walls. Higher fills more tips; lower means fewer extra walls, but gaps can be left.10°
  • Wall transition filter marginWith Arachne: how much a wall's width can vary before the program decides to split it into two or merge two into one. More margin, fewer transitions.25 %
  • Wall transition lengthWith Arachne: how much room is set aside for two walls to merge into one (or one to split into two) as the part gets thinner. Longer makes the change more gradual.100 %
  • Wall distribution countWith Arachne: how many walls, counting from the middle of the area outward, are allowed to change width to fill the space. At 1, only the innermost one changes and the outer ones stay as they are.1
  • Minimum wall widthWith Arachne: the thinnest a wall line is allowed to get, as a percentage of the nozzle diameter. With a 0.4 mm nozzle, 85% is 0.34 mm.85 %
  • Minimum feature sizeWith Arachne: how thick a detail in the model has to be before it gets printed. Anything thinner is ignored; anything above the threshold is thickened up to the “Minimum wall width”.25 %

Process › Quality

  • Order of wallsThe order in which the wall loops of each layer are printed: inside to outside, outside to inside, or inner-outer-inner. It changes how parts that stick out turn out, how the seam looks, and how accurate the dimensions are.inner/outer
  • Print infill firstPrints the infill of each layer before the walls instead of after. It can keep some walls from drooping, but it usually leaves marks on the outer wall.No
  • Bridge flowMultiplies the amount of plastic the nozzle releases while it lays a bridge across thin air. A little under 1 gives lighter strands that sag less.1
  • Thick bridgesPrints bridge lines round and as thick as the nozzle, instead of squashed to the layer height. They hold up longer bridges, but the underside comes out rougher.No
  • Bridge counterbore holesA counterbore hole has two widths: a wide one where the screw head hides and a narrow one for the threaded part. This option decides whether a bridge is laid over the step between them so you don't need supports.None
  • Object flow ratioMultiplies all the plastic that comes out of the nozzle for one specific object on the plate. It lets you correct that object without touching the filament profile; it doesn't appear in the global settings.1
  • Top surface flow ratioMultiplies the amount of plastic only on the last layer, the top face. A little under 1 usually gives a smoother top.1
  • Initial layer flow ratioMultiplies the amount of plastic only on the first layer. A little more helps it stick to the plate; too much leaves blobs and ridges.1
  • Only one wall on top surfacesOn flat top faces it uses a single wall instead of the usual ones, so the surface pattern covers more area and the top looks more even.Top surfaces
  • Top area thresholdHow wide a top surface has to be before “Only one wall on top surfaces” is applied to it. Raising it protects thin steps, which keep their normal walls.200 %
  • Only one wall on first layerThe first layer gets a single wall and the rest is solid infill. It's for bases with fine details, where a second wall would eat into the design.No
  • Detect overhang wallMeasures how much of each wall line sits over thin air and prints it slower depending on how far it sticks out. That makes parts that stick out come out cleaner.Yes
  • Smooth speed changesWhere the wall switches from normal speed to overhang speed (an overhang is a part sticking out into the air), it slows down and speeds up gradually instead of all at once. That gets rid of the marks at those changes.Yes
  • Smooth coefficientHow long the ramp is that smooths out a speed change. The smaller the number, the longer and smoother the ramp; at 0 there's no ramp.80
  • Avoid crossing wallsWhen the nozzle moves from one spot to another without releasing plastic, it goes around on the inside of the part instead of cutting across the outer wall. Fewer strings and fewer marks on the surface.No
  • Max detour lengthHow much longer a travel move (a move without printing) is allowed to get by going around the wall. If the detour adds more than this, the nozzle goes straight and crosses. At 0 there's no limit.0 mm or %
  • Avoid crossing walls, supports tooApplies the detour to supports as well: when moving without printing, the nozzle avoids crossing their walls, not just the part's.No
  • Smooth wall speed between layersKeeps the outer wall speed from jumping from one layer to the next. It gets rid of shiny bands on tall parts with smooth surfaces. It's experimental.No

Process › Strength › Walls

  • Number of wallsHow many loops of plastic make up the shell of the part. More walls give more strength and more weight, without touching the infill.2
  • Alternate extra wallAdds one more wall on every other layer. It interlocks with the infill and the part gains strength without paying the time of an extra wall on every layer.No
  • Embed the wall into the infillWhere an area with walls meets one without them, it pushes the wall into the neighboring infill on alternating layers, so the two areas lock together firmly.No
  • Detect thin wallWith the classic generator, it prints areas where two lines don't fit using a single line. It saves text and thin ribs, at the cost of some fragile walls.No

Process › Strength › Top/bottom shells

  • Interface shellsAdds solid layers at the boundary between two materials, or two touching parts of the same object. It's for multi-filament prints where one is translucent or is a soluble support you placed yourself.No
  • Top surface patternThe pattern the lines make on the top face of the part, the one people see most. “Monotonic line” gives the smoothest top; the other patterns are faster or decorative.Monotonic line
  • Top surface densityHow closed the top face is. At 100% it's a solid lid; lower values leave gaps between the lines, like a texture or a grille.100 %
  • Top shell layersHow many solid layers close off the top of the part. With too few, the top sags and you can see the infill pattern through it.5
  • Top shell thicknessThe minimum thickness, in millimeters, of the solid layers on top. If the layers you asked for don't reach that thickness, the slicer adds more, so the top doesn't end up too thin with very low layers.1.0 mm
  • Top paint penetration layersWhen you paint a top face a different color with the paint tool, this sets how many layers down that color goes. It only matters in multicolor prints.5
  • Bottom surface patternThe pattern the lines make on the face that touches the plate. On a textured plate you barely notice it; on a smooth plate, “Monotonic” gives the most even face.Monotonic
  • Bottom surface densityHow closed the face that touches the plate is. At 100% it's a solid base; lower values leave gaps between the lines and the part sticks worse.100 %
  • Bottom shell layersHow many solid layers make up the base of the part. With too few, the infill shows from below and the base is weak; with a lot, it takes longer and gains almost nothing.3
  • Bottom shell thicknessThe minimum thickness, in millimeters, of the solid layers at the bottom: if the layers you asked for don't reach it, more are added. It's set to 0, so by default only the layer count matters.0 mm
  • Bottom paint penetration layersWhen you paint a bottom face a different color, this sets how many layers up that color goes. It only matters in multicolor prints.3
  • Use infill instead of top and bottom surfacesThe part isn't closed on top or bottom: the infill pattern runs all the way to the faces. It's a texture effect meant for the “Locked Zag” pattern.No
  • Internal solid infill patternThe pattern of the solid layers nobody sees: the ones under the top, above the base, and in small areas that get filled completely. “Rectilinear” is the fastest, and no one will see it.Rectilinear

Process › Strength › Sparse infill

  • Infill densityHow much of the inside of the part is filled with plastic. 15% already holds up most parts; 100% is almost never worth it.15%
  • Fill multilinePrints each infill line as a group of several lines of plastic side by side. At the same density, the infill's inner walls come out thicker and the part stiffer.1
  • Infill patternThe shape the plastic draws inside the part. At the same percentage, each pattern changes strength, time, noise and how well it supports the top; there's no single best one.Grid
  • Conformal infillMakes the infill lines follow the shape of each layer, instead of all running parallel at a fixed angle. On long or curved parts, they fan out from the center, like the spokes of a wheel.No
  • Layer staggerWith conformal infill: decides whether neighboring layers stack identically or shift, so each line connects to the next one at the opposite end. Shifting them bonds the layers better.Off
  • Forward layersWith conformal infill: how many layers in a row keep the zigzag in its normal direction before reversing it. Together with “Reverse layers” it forms a cycle: so many layers forward, so many reversed.1 layers
  • Reverse layersWith conformal infill: how many layers in a row run the zigzag backwards, starting from the opposite edge. At 0 it never reverses.0 layers
  • Radial centerWith conformal infill: where the center of the spokes comes from. It can be worked out on each layer, on a straight line through all of them, or on a smooth curve.Each layer
  • Radial line countWith conformal infill: how many lines come out of the center, like the spokes of a wheel. At 0, infill density decides.0
  • Center region radiusWith conformal infill: the size of the center circle that gets filled with regular lines; the spokes go outside it. At 0, the slicer picks it.0 mm
  • Skin infill patternWith the “Locked Zag” pattern: the infill pattern in the skin, the band of infill right against the walls. The skeleton, further in, has its own.Cross Zag
  • Skin infill densityWith the “Locked Zag” pattern: how much plastic goes into the skin, the band of infill right against the walls. Raising it reinforces the part exactly where it needs it most.15%
  • Skeleton infill patternWith the “Locked Zag” pattern: the infill pattern in the skeleton, the central zone away from the walls.Zig Zag
  • Skeleton infill densityWith the “Locked Zag” pattern: how much plastic goes into the skeleton, the central zone of the infill. It can almost always be lighter than the skin.15%
  • Infill lock depthWith the “Locked Zag” pattern: how many millimeters the skin and skeleton overlap, so the two infills lock into each other instead of just touching.1.0 mm
  • Skin infill depthWith the “Locked Zag” pattern: how many millimeters of infill, measured inward from the wall, make up the skin. The rest is skeleton.2.0 mm
  • Skin line widthWith the “Locked Zag” pattern: how wide the lines of plastic in the skin are. Wider lines give a more solid skin without changing the density.0.45 mm
  • Skeleton line widthWith the “Locked Zag” pattern: how wide the lines of plastic in the skeleton, the central zone of the infill, are. Wider lines give a sturdier skeleton.0.45 mm
  • Symmetric infill Y axisFlips the infill pattern like a mirror, across the Y axis. It's so two symmetric parts (left and right) also get a mirrored infill texture.No
  • Infill shift stepWith “Cross Zag” or “Locked Zag”: shifts the pattern a few tenths of a millimeter on each layer, to create a 3D crisscross texture.0.4 mm
  • Lattice angle 1With the “2D Lattice” pattern: how far the first set of bars tilts from vertical. 0° is vertical, and the sign decides which way they lean.-45°
  • Lattice angle 2With the “2D Lattice” pattern: how far the second set of bars tilts from vertical. With the first at -45° and this one at +45°, they cross in an X.45°
  • Infill rotate stepWith “Zig Zag”: rotates the pattern a few degrees on each layer, to create a crisscross or spiral texture.0°
  • Length of sparse infill anchorWhen two infill lines end close to each other by the wall, they're joined with a short segment that follows the wall, so they aren't left loose. This value is the maximum length of that segment, as a percentage of the line width.400, true mm or %
  • Maximum length of sparse infill anchorThe hard limit, in millimeters, for infill anchors. At 0 nothing is anchored and every line ends loose.20, false
  • Filter out tiny gapsGaps between walls that are narrower than this value are left empty instead of being filled with tiny bits of line. Raising it saves pointless moves; at 0 everything gets filled.0 mm

Process › Strength

  • Infill/wall overlapHow far the infill lines reach into the inner wall so they stick to it firmly. Too little and the infill sits loose inside; too much and the wall bulges.15%
  • Monotonic line travel extendWhen each line of a monotonic top surface ends, the nozzle keeps going straight a tiny bit farther, into the wall, before turning. More extension gives a cleaner edge; too much can bulge next to the wall.0.0 %
  • Infill directionThe angle of the infill lines relative to the bed. 45° spreads the strength evenly; 0° or 90° lines them up with the sides of the part.45°
  • Bridge directionWhich way the lines run when the printer stretches a bridge across thin air. At 0 the slicer picks on its own, and it's almost always right.0°
  • Minimum sparse infill thresholdInfill areas smaller than this are printed solid instead of hollow. Raising it keeps narrow parts from ending up fragile; lowering it saves plastic.15 mm²
  • Infill combinationPrints the infill once every few layers, thicker, while the walls stay thin. Saves time on large parts printed with low layers.No
  • Detect narrow internal solid infillIn very narrow solid areas, instead of short lines going back and forth, it prints rings that follow the outline. Faster and cleaner.Yes
  • Sub-top surface patternThe pattern of the solid layer right under the top surface. With “Monotonic” the top comes out smoother, because the lines underneath don't show through.Monotonic
  • Ensure vertical shell thicknessOn sloped faces, adds solid infill under each step so the shell is as thick as on a flat top. Without it, the infill shows through.Enabled
  • Detect floating vertical shellsFinds the stretches of solid infill on sloped faces that have nothing underneath and prints them at bridge speed so they don't droop.Yes

Process › Speed › Initial layer speed

  • Initial layer speedHow fast the walls and outlines of the first layer, the one that sticks to the plate, are printed. Slower means better grip; faster means it finishes sooner.50 mm/s
  • Initial layer infill speedHow fast the solid infill of the first layer is printed. It can go faster than that layer's walls, but it's still slow: raising it saves time on big bases, lowering it improves grip.105 mm/s

Process › Speed › Other layers speed

  • Outer wall speedHow fast the visible face of the part is printed. Lowering it improves the finish more than any other speed, and it adds the least to the print time.200 mm/s
  • Inner wall speedHow fast the walls you can't see are printed. They can go fast; the limit is how much plastic the nozzle can melt per second.300 mm/s
  • Small perimeter speedHow fast small outlines, usually holes, are printed. It's a percentage of the outer wall speed: in a circle a few millimeters across there's no room to speed up.50%
  • Small perimeter thresholdUp to what size an outline counts as “small” and gets printed at the “Small perimeters” speed. Raising it slows down more outlines; at 0, the slicer decides on its own.0 mm
  • Sparse infill speedHow fast the inside infill is printed. It's where you save the most time, because nobody sees it; the limit is the filament's flow (how much plastic it melts per second).270 mm/s
  • Internal solid infill speedHow fast the solid layers you can't see are printed: the ones under the top, above the bottom and in small areas. It runs almost as fast as the infill; lowering it helps those layers close up properly.250 mm/s
  • Vertical shell speedHow fast the stretches of solid infill that rest over hollow space under a sloped face are printed. It's a percentage of the internal solid infill speed: lower means cleaner sloped faces.80%
  • Top surface speedHow fast the upper face is printed. Slower means more even lines and a smoother top; it's a single layer, so it costs little time.200 mm/s
  • Slow down for overhangSlows down walls that hang out over empty space, depending on how far they hang, without slowing down the rest. It's what lets you print fast and still get good overhangs.Yes
  • Overhang speed, 10 to 25%How fast wall lines go when they hang out between 10 and 25% of their width. At 0 they aren't slowed down: they hang so little that it isn't needed.0 mm/s
  • Overhang speed, 25 to 50%How fast wall lines go when they hang out between a quarter and half of their width. This is where real slowing down starts: lower means cleaner sloped faces.50 mm/s
  • Overhang speed, 50 to 75%How fast wall lines go when they hang out between half and three quarters of their width. More of it hangs than rests on something: it has to go slowly.30 mm/s
  • Overhang speed, 75 to 100%How fast wall lines go when they hang out almost completely, without quite being a bridge. It's the slowest range: raising it saves time at the cost of worse overhangs.10 mm/s
  • Overhang speed, 100%How fast wall lines go when they hang out completely, with no support at all from the layer below. They're wall bridges: the slower, the less they droop.10 mm/s
  • Slow down by heightLowers the maximum speed as the part grows taller. It's meant for tall, narrow parts that wobble when the print head moves fast at the very top.No
  • Starting heightThe height at which the speed starts to drop. Below it, the part prints at normal speed.0 mm
  • Speed at starting heightThe speed cap when the height slowdown begins. At 1000 mm/s (the factory value) it limits nothing: set it to the part's normal speed.1000 mm/s
  • Acceleration at starting heightThe acceleration cap (how abruptly the print head starts and stops) when the height slowdown begins. At 100,000 mm/s² (the factory value) it limits nothing.100000 mm/s²
  • Ending heightThe height at which the final speed cap is reached; above it, that cap stays in place. It must be greater than the starting height.400 mm
  • Speed at ending heightThe speed cap when the height slowdown ends. It's the speed used for the tallest part of the print: lower means fewer ripples at the top.1000 mm/s
  • Acceleration at ending heightThe acceleration cap when the height slowdown ends. It's the one that really gets rid of jolts at the top: lower means smoother corners.100000 mm/s²
  • Bridge speedHow fast bridges are laid down, the lines printed through the air from one support to another. It goes slowly so the strand cools as it crosses and doesn't sag.50 mm/s
  • Gap infill speedHow fast the little bits of line that fill gaps between walls are printed. They're short stretches of uneven width: lowering it cleans up thin areas.250 mm/s
  • Support speedHow fast the body of the supports is printed. They end up in the trash, so they can go fast; the limit is that they mustn't wobble.150 mm/s
  • Support interface speedHow fast the interface is printed: the dense support layers that touch the part. It runs slower than the rest of the support, because it decides whether the underside comes out smooth and whether the support peels off cleanly.80 mm/s

Process › Speed › Travel speed

  • Travel speedHow fast the nozzle moves when it goes from one spot to another without laying plastic. The faster it goes, the less time it has to drip and the fewer strings it leaves.700 mm/s

Process › Speed › Acceleration

  • Normal printing accelerationHow hard the print head speeds up and brakes on any line that doesn't have its own acceleration. More acceleration means less time on short stretches, but more vibration.6000 mm/s²
  • Travel accelerationHow hard the print head speeds up and brakes on travel moves, when it moves without laying plastic. Since nothing is being printed, it only changes the time and the vibration left over when the head arrives.10000 mm/s²
  • Short travel accelerationA very low acceleration for short travel moves that pass next to the outer wall, so the head doesn't jolt right beside the visible face. 0 turns it off.250 mm/s²
  • Initial layer travel accelerationHow hard the print head speeds up and brakes on travel moves during the first layer. Gentler than on the rest of the part, so it doesn't rip up lines that have just stuck down.6000 mm/s²
  • Initial layer accelerationHow hard the print head speeds up and brakes while printing the first layer. Very low, so the lines go down calmly and grip the plate well.500 mm/s²
  • Outer wall accelerationHow hard the print head speeds up and brakes on the outer wall, the face you see. It's set lower than the normal acceleration so corners don't leave ripples.5000 mm/s²
  • Inner wall accelerationHow hard the print head speeds up and brakes on the inner walls, the ones you don't see. At 0 it uses the normal acceleration.0 mm/s²
  • Top surface accelerationHow hard the print head speeds up and brakes on the top surface, the face on top. It's kept low so each change of direction doesn't leave a mark.2000 mm/s²
  • Sparse infill accelerationHow hard the print head speeds up and brakes on the inside infill, as a percentage of the normal acceleration. Since infill isn't visible, it can go as fast as normal, or faster.100%

Process › Speed › Jerk(XY)

  • Max volumetric slope (increase)How much the plastic flow (how many mm³ come out of the nozzle per second) can rise each second. It prevents sudden jumps, which leave bulges or gaps. 0 turns it off.0 mm³/s²
  • Max volumetric slope (decrease)How much the plastic flow can drop each second. It's the partner of the increase slope, for when the head goes from fast lines to slow ones. 0 turns it off.0 mm³/s²

Process › Support › Support

  • Enable supportThe main switch for supports: throwaway scaffolding printed under the parts that hang in the air. Without it, whatever sticks out too far falls; with it, the print takes longer, uses more plastic and leaves marks when you remove it.No
  • Support typeWhether the support is straight columns (“normal”) or branches that dodge the part (“tree”), and whether the slicer decides where it goes (“auto”) or it only goes where you paint it (“manual”).tree(auto)
  • Support styleThe exact shape of the support within its type: for normal, columns on a grid or hugging the overhang; for tree, slim, strong, hybrid or organic branches.Default
  • Threshold angleThe slope at which a downward-facing face starts getting support. The angle is measured between that face and the horizontal: at 30°, faces flatter than 30° get support and steeper ones print on their own.30°
  • On build plate onlySupport only grows from the plate and never rests on top of the part. Faces stay cleaner, but overhangs that could only be held up from the part itself are left without help.No
  • Support critical regions onlyTree support only holds up what would really fall (tips, tails that reach far out, overhangs attached on just one side) and leaves ordinary slopes without support.No
  • Remove small overhangsSkip support under tiny ledges (a chamfer, a raised letter, a one-millimeter lip) that print fine on their own.Yes

Process › Support › Raft

  • Raft layersHow many layers of a throwaway base are printed under the whole part. At 0 (the default), the part goes straight onto the plate.0 layers
  • Raft contact Z distanceThe gap left between the last layer of the raft and the first layer of the part, so you can separate them by hand afterward.0.1 mm

Process › Support › Support filament

  • Support/raft base filamentWhich filament prints the support body and the raft. “Default” uses the same one as the part; a different filament makes sense for soluble support or to use up a cheap one.Default
  • Support/raft interface filamentWhich filament prints the support layers that touch the part. With a support filament (or a soluble one), the support comes away almost by itself and the underside comes out smooth.Default
  • Avoid interface filament for baseKeeps the special interface filament from also being used in the support body, even when the slicer would like to use it to save a filament change.Yes

Process › Support › Support ironing

  • Support interface ironingSmooths the top of the support interface (or of the raft) with the nozzle before the part rests on it, so the part's underside comes out smoother.No
  • Support ironing patternThe path the nozzle follows when ironing the support interface: straight lines or concentric rings. Same as for top surface ironing.Rectilinear
  • Support ironing speedHow fast the nozzle moves while ironing the support interface. Slow smooths better; fast barely changes anything.30 mm/s
  • Support ironing flowHow much plastic the nozzle lays while ironing the support interface, as a percentage of a normal layer. Too little doesn't fill the grooves; too much leaves bumps.10%
  • Support ironing line spacingThe distance between ironing passes over the support interface. Closer together is smoother and slower; if they're spaced wider than the nozzle covers, strips are left unironed.0.15 mm
  • Support ironing insetHow far short of the edge of the support interface the ironing stops. At 0 it goes right to the edge and can leave a small ridge.0.0 mm
  • Support ironing directionThe angle of the ironing passes relative to the interface lines. Crossing them (45°) smooths better than running parallel (0°).0°

Process › Support

  • Initial layer densityHow solid the first layer of the support or raft is, the one that sticks to the plate. Nearly solid (90%) grips well; very open can come loose halfway through the print.90 %
  • Initial layer expansionHow far the first layer of the support or raft sticks out to the sides, like a small rim that helps it grip the plate. At −1 the slicer decides.-1 mm
  • Support wall loopsHow many outline loops each support column or branch gets around its infill. At −1 the slicer decides; 0 allows infill-only support where it's thick enough.-1
  • Top Z distanceThe gap between the top of the support and the part resting on it. A bigger gap is easier to remove but gives a worse underside; 0 only with support filament.0.2 mm
  • Bottom Z distanceThe gap between the part and a support that grows on top of it (when the support starts on a face of the part instead of on the plate). It's like the top distance, but facing down.0.2 mm
  • Support base patternThe pattern inside the support (not the layer that touches the part): lines, grid, honeycomb, lightning or hollow. It changes how much it holds, how much plastic it uses and how hard it is to pull off.Default
  • Support base pattern spacingThe distance between the lines in the body of the support. Closer together, the support is sturdier and uses more plastic; farther apart, it's lighter, but the layer on top has less to rest on.2.5 mm
  • Support pattern angleRotates the lines in the body of the support on the plate. You rarely need it; it's useful, for example, to make the lines cross a narrow support instead of running along it.0°
  • Top interface layersHow many dense layers the support puts right under the part so it rests on something flat. At 0, the part rests on the support's open lines and its underside comes out pitted and wavy.2 layers
  • Bottom interface layersHow many dense layers a normal support puts down where it starts on top of the part. At 0 it starts with loose lines and holds poorly; at −1 it uses the same number as the top interface.2 layers
  • Support interface patternThe pattern of the support layer that touches the part: lines, interlaced lines, rings or grid. It changes how smooth the underside comes out and how hard the support is to peel off.Default
  • Top interface spacingThe distance between the lines of the layer that touches the part. At 0 it's solid: the underside comes out better, but it sticks more. At 0.5 mm (the default) there's a small gap so it peels off.0.5 mm
  • Bottom interface spacingThe distance between the lines of the layer a normal support uses to rest on the part. At 0 it's solid: it rests better, but it sticks more.0.5 mm
  • Normal support expansionHow far a normal support sticks out around the part in the air that it holds up. Positive values widen it (the edges are better supported); negative values narrow it (so it doesn't bump into anything).0 mm
  • Support/object XY distanceThe horizontal gap the support leaves from the part's vertical walls, so it doesn't fuse with them or leave marks.0.35 mm
  • Z overrides X/YRight under an overhang (a part of the model in the air), it lets the support get as close as the vertical gap allows, even if that cuts into the horizontal margin.No
  • Support/object first layer gapThe horizontal gap between the part and the support on the first layer, the most squashed one, so they don't end up joined at the base.0.2 mm
  • Don't support bridgesMakes the normal support leave bridges (spans in the air held up at both ends) without columns, so they print as bridges, with the strands pulled tight from side to side.No
  • Max bridge lengthUp to what length a bridge (a span in the air held up at both ends) prints without tree support. At 0, every bridge gets support; with a very large value, none do.0 mm
  • Independent support layer heightLets the support print with thicker layers than the part whenever it can, to save time. The part doesn't change.Yes

Process › Support › Tree Support

  • Tree branch distanceHow many millimeters apart the tree support places its contact points under an overhang (a part of the model in the air). Closer together, the underside comes out better, but there are more branches to remove.5 mm
  • Tree branch diameterHow thick the tree support's branches are where they start. Thin ones come off almost by themselves, but can break or wobble; thick ones hold up heavy parts, but leave more marks.2 mm
  • Tree branch angleHow far the tree support's branches can lean from vertical. A bigger angle reaches farther and steers around the part better; too much, and the branches themselves print badly.45°
  • Tree branch diameter angleHow much the tree support's branches thicken on the way down. At 0 they're the same thickness from top to bottom; a few degrees turns them into more stable trunks.5°

Process › Others › Bed adhension

  • Skirt loopsHow many loose loops the nozzle draws around the part before starting it, so the plastic is flowing evenly when it gets there. At 0 there's no skirt.0
  • Skirt heightHow many layers tall the skirt is. At 1 it's just a purge line; with several it becomes a low wall that shields the base of the part from cold air.1 layers
  • Skirt distanceHow many millimeters from the part the skirt is drawn. Close, it shields better from air; far, it doesn't brush anything.2 mm
  • Brim typeWhether a brim (a flat, one-layer band stuck to the base of the part) is added and where: automatic, outside, inside the holes, on painted corners, or none.Auto
  • Brim widthHow far the brim (a flat, one-layer band around the base) extends from the part. Wider, the part grips the plate better, but it uses more plastic and is harder to clean up.5 mm
  • Brim-object gapThe gap between the brim's innermost line and the part. Small, it holds more; large, it comes off more easily.0.1 mm

Process › Others › Prime tower

  • Prime towerA throwaway tower where the nozzle gets rid of leftovers from the previous color after each filament change. With several colors, it's what keeps the colors clean.Yes
  • Prime tower skip pointsLeaves a gap in the prime tower's wall where the first path enters after each filament change, so the blob the nozzle brings along doesn't stay on the outside of the tower.Yes
  • Prime tower internal ribsFills the parts of the prime tower that would otherwise be empty with a light structure, so it doesn't wobble.No
  • Prime tower widthThe horizontal size of the prime tower. Wider, it's more stable and has more room for purging, but it uses more plastic and takes up more space on the plate.35 mm
  • Prime tower max speedThe top speed for printing the prime tower, not counting ramming. Faster saves time; too fast, and the tower comes out uneven.90 mm/s
  • Prime tower brim widthA flat brim around the base of the prime tower so it doesn't come loose or tip over. At −1, the slicer works it out from the tower's height.3 mm
  • Prime tower infill gapHow far apart the lines of the prime tower's infill are, as a percentage of one line's width. At 100% they touch; at 150% there's half a line's width of gap between them.150 %
  • Prime tower rib wallAdds four diagonal ribs at the corners of the prime tower and keeps it square: that way it handles bumps much better without getting bigger. With this on, the slicer decides the width.Yes
  • Extra rib lengthMakes the prime tower's ribs longer or shorter than what the slicer calculates. Longer, the tower is sturdier, but it takes up more of the plate.0 mm
  • Rib widthHow thick the prime tower's four ribs are. Wider, they brace it more, but leave less contact between the wall and the infill.8 mm
  • Fillet wallRounds the corners of the prime tower's wall so the nozzle can go around them without slamming on the brakes.Yes
  • Tower interface featuresUses special temperature, pre-extrusion and purge settings on the prime tower layers where the material changes, so the two parts stick together and the tower doesn't split.No
  • Prime tower without empty layers (experimental)Print the prime tower only on layers where the filament changes; on those, the toolhead moves down to the tower to print it. It saves plastic, but it's up to you to make sure it doesn't hit the part.No

Process › Others › Flush options

  • Flush into infillUse the mixed plastic from each color change to print the part's inner infill, which nobody sees. Less tower and less waste.No
  • Flush into this objectPrint this part with the transition plastic from the others: it comes out with stripes of mixed colors, but with almost no waste.No
  • Flush into supportUse the mixed plastic from each color change to print the support, which goes in the trash anyway. On by default.Yes

Process › Others › Special mode

  • Slicing modeHow the slicer reads the model's shape: regular, even-odd (for thin surfaces that cross each other, as in 3DLabPrint airplanes) or closing the holes.Regular
  • Print sequenceWith several parts on the plate: print them all at once, layer by layer, or finish one completely before starting the next.By layer
  • Spiral vasePrint the part with a single wall that climbs in a nonstop spiral: no seam, no infill and no top. Perfect for vases; useless for almost everything else.No
  • Smooth spiralAlso smooth out, sideways, the step from one turn of the spiral to the next, so vases with irregular shapes show no mark at all.No
  • Max sideways (XY) smoothingHow far sideways the smoothing arc may stray from the original path, as a percentage of the nozzle diameter. 200% with a 0.4 mm nozzle is 0.8 mm.200, true mm or %
  • Timelapse modeHow the photo of each layer is taken for the video: as is (instant) or moving the toolhead aside and cleaning it on a tower afterwards (smooth). The timelapse itself is turned on when you send the print.Instant
  • Fuzzy skinMake the nozzle jitter while printing the walls so the surface comes out rough and matte, like stone or leather. It hides layer lines and the seam, but dimensions drift a little.None(allow paint)
  • How fuzzy skin is madeWhether the texture is made by moving the nozzle sideways (displacement), by varying how much plastic it pushes out (extrusion), or both.Displacement
  • Fuzzy skin noise typeThe random “pattern” that makes up the texture: fine, even grain (classic), gentle waves (Perlin), bumps (Billow), marble-like ridges, or mosaic-like cells (Voronoi).Classic
  • Fuzzy skin point distanceHow many millimeters apart the nozzle changes direction while making the texture. Closer means finer grain and more time; farther apart means coarser grain.0.8 mm
  • Fuzzy skin thicknessHow far the nozzle strays to each side of the path, that is, how deep the texture is. Keep it below the line width or you'll get gaps.0.3 mm
  • Fuzzy skin feature sizeWith Perlin, Billow, ridged and Voronoi noise: the base size of the texture's shapes, in millimeters. The bigger it is, the larger the waves and bumps.1.0 mm
  • Noise octavesHow many levels of detail are stacked in the texture: one big wave plus others that get finer and finer. More octaves mean more detail and longer slicing.4
  • Noise persistenceHow much the fine details count compared with the texture's big wave. Low gives a soft texture; high, a rough one.0.5
  • Fuzzy skin on the first layerApply the texture to the first layer too. It's usually left smooth so it sticks well to the plate.No

Process › Others

  • Clumping detection by probingHave the printer check on layers 4, 11 and 20 for plastic wrapped around the nozzle, by moving down to touch the plate. It's for the H2D, H2S, H2C and P2S; on the A1 it's turned on from the printer's screen.No
  • Overlap carving by sizeWhen two parts of an object overlap, the overlap is carved by size (the smaller one wins) instead of by the order you added them. That way, a small part tucked inside another doesn't disappear.No
  • Beam interlockingAlong the border between two filaments, generate small beams that cross like the fingers of two hands, so the materials don't come apart. Very useful with PLA and TPU, or with support filament.No
  • Interlocking depth for painted areasHow deep the areas you painted with another filament interlock with the material next to them. 0 turns it off.0 mm
  • Interlocking beam widthHow wide the interlocking beams are. Thin ones break; wide ones show when they reach the surface.0.8 mm
  • Beam directionThe angle of the interlocking beams relative to the edges of the plate. Changing it keeps them from running parallel to the border between materials.22.5°
  • Layers per beamHow many layers tall each interlocking beam is. Fewer layers make a stronger bond, but the teeth are harder to print well.2
  • Interlocking depthHow far the beams of one material reach into the other, measured in cells. Too little grips poorly; too much mixes the colors more at the border.2
  • Interlocking distance from the outsideHow many cells next to the outer surface are left without beams, so the teeth can't be seen from outside.2
  • Infill filamentWhich filament prints the inner infill. “Default” uses the filament assigned to the object; picking another lets you have a cheap inside with a nice outside, at the cost of spool changes on every layer.Default
  • Solid infill filamentWhich filament prints the inner solid layers (the ones under the top layers and above the bottom layers). “Default” uses the filament assigned to the object.Default
  • Wall filamentWhich filament prints the walls. “Default” uses the filament assigned to the object; picking another gives you an outside in one material and an inside in another.Default

Process › Others › G-code output

  • Reduce infill retractionWhether the printer pulls the filament back (retraction) when it moves without printing inside the infill. “Auto” skips it for filaments that ooze little (PLA) and keeps it for those that ooze more (PETG).Auto
  • Number the G-code linesPut a number (N…) at the start of every line of the print file. Only some older programs need it; most current printers (Bambu ones among them) don't.No
  • File name formatThe template used to name the file when you export the G-code: model name, filament, time… The words in curly braces are replaced with the real data.

Process › Others › Post-processing scripts

  • Post-processing scriptsYour own scripts (small programs) that run on the freshly generated G-code, before it's saved, to modify it. Advanced users only.

Process › Others › Notes

  • Process notesA free-text space saved with the process profile. It doesn't change anything in the print: it's for noting what the profile is for and what you've tried.

Filament › Filament › Basic information

  • Filament typeThe spool's material: PLA, PETG, ABS, TPU… Temperatures, fan and suitable plates all depend on it.PLA
  • VendorThe filament's brand. Display only: it doesn't change how it prints.Bambu Lab
  • Soluble materialMarks the filament as soluble: a support you remove by dissolving it, usually in water.No
  • Support materialMarks the filament as support material: made not to stick to the part and to come off almost by itself.No
  • Impact strength ZA figure Bambu measures for each filament: how well it takes a knock between layers. It's informational; it doesn't change how it prints.13.8
  • Required nozzle HRCThe minimum hardness (HRC) the nozzle must have for this filament. At 0, the program doesn't check.3
  • Default colorThe color the profile suggests for this filament in the program. It only changes how it looks on screen.
  • Filament diameterThe filament thickness the program uses to work out how much to push. If it doesn't match the real one, too much or too little plastic comes out.1.75 mm
  • Adhesiveness categoryA group number the prime tower uses to keep apart filaments that don't stick to each other.100
  • Metal stickinessHow much the filament tends to stick to the nozzle and leave residue. With “Auto”, it decides whether retraction is skipped inside the infill.None
  • Flow ratioMultiplies all the plastic that comes out with this filament. It's where the flow test result is stored.0.98
  • DensityHow much each cubic centimeter of filament weighs. The program uses it to show the weight of each print; it doesn't change how it prints.1.26 g/cm³
  • ShrinkageHow much the filament shrinks as it cools. The program scales the part up in X and Y to make up for it.100%
  • Velocity adaptation factorHow quickly the material responds when the printer changes speed. The program uses it to decide how long the transition between two speeds is.1
  • PriceWhat a kilo of this filament costs. The program only uses it to estimate the cost of each print.15.99 money/kg
  • Softening temperatureThe temperature at which the material starts going soft. If the bed matches or exceeds it, on an enclosed printer it's best to open the door or remove the lid.45
  • Filament printableAn internal number that says which extruders the filament can be used in. It matters on two-extruder printers; with just one, like the A1, it doesn't.3
  • Cooling before towerHow many degrees the nozzle drops when heading to the prime tower; before wiping, it heats back up. In PLA Basic it's 0: off.0 °C
  • Tower ironing areaThe area the nozzle irons in a spiral on the prime tower, where different materials meet.4 mm²
  • Tower priming on filament changeHow much plastic the nozzle leaves on the prime tower after switching filament, so the new color comes out clean.30 mm³
  • Tower priming on hotend changeThe same as priming on a filament change, but for printers that swap hotends mid-print. On printers with a single hotend, like the A1, it does nothing.60 mm³
  • Ramming length on extruder changeHow many millimeters of filament the nozzle pushes before switching extruder, to ooze less.5 mm
  • Ramming length on hotend changeHow many millimeters of filament the nozzle pushes before swapping hotend, to ooze less.10 mm
  • Travel after ramming (extruder change)How many seconds the nozzle moves in reverse after ramming, to break the strand before switching extruder.0 s
  • Travel after ramming (hotend change)How many seconds the nozzle moves in reverse after ramming, to break the strand before swapping hotend.0 s
  • Pre-cooling (extruder change)What temperature the nozzle drops to during ramming, to ooze less when switching extruder. 0 turns it off.0 °C
  • Pre-cooling (hotend change)What temperature the nozzle drops to during ramming, to ooze less when swapping hotend. 0 turns it off; it doesn't guarantee reaching that temperature.0 °C
  • Minimum recommended temperatureThe bottom of the filament's temperature range. If you set the nozzle cooler, Bambu Studio warns you.190 °C
  • Maximum recommended temperatureThe top of the filament's temperature range. If you set the nozzle hotter, Bambu Studio warns you.240 °C

Filament › Filament › Print temperature

  • Bed on the SuperTack plate: initial layerThe bed temperature for the first layer when you use the Bambu Cool Plate SuperTack. 0 means the filament doesn't support that plate.45 °C
  • Bed on the SuperTack plateThe bed temperature for every layer except the first when you use the Bambu Cool Plate SuperTack. 0 means the filament doesn't support that plate.45 °C
  • Bed on the Cool Plate: initial layerThe bed temperature for the first layer when you use the Cool Plate. 0 means the filament doesn't support that plate.35 °C
  • Bed on the Cool PlateThe bed temperature for every layer except the first when you use the Cool Plate. 0 means the filament doesn't support that plate.35 °C
  • Bed on the Engineering Plate: initial layerThe bed temperature for the first layer when you use the Engineering Plate. 0 means the filament doesn't support that plate.0 °C
  • Bed on the Engineering PlateThe bed temperature for every layer except the first when you use the Engineering Plate. 0 means the filament doesn't support that plate.0 °C
  • Bed on the Smooth PEI Plate: initial layerThe bed temperature for the first layer when you use the Smooth PEI / High Temp Plate. 0 means the filament doesn't support that plate.65 °C
  • Bed on the Smooth PEI PlateThe bed temperature for every layer except the first when you use the Smooth PEI / High Temp Plate. 0 means the filament doesn't support that plate.65 °C
  • Bed on the Textured PEI Plate: initial layerThe bed temperature for the first layer when you use the Textured PEI Plate. 0 means the filament doesn't support that plate.65 °C
  • Bed on the Textured PEI PlateThe bed temperature for every layer except the first when you use the Textured PEI Plate. 0 means the filament doesn't support that plate.65 °C
  • Nozzle temperature, initial layerThe nozzle temperature for the first layer. A little hotter helps it grip; in PLA Basic it's the same as the rest, 220 °C.220 °C
  • Nozzle temperatureThe temperature the nozzle melts the filament at from the second layer on. Too cool and the plastic doesn't fully melt; too hot and it oozes and strings.220 °C

Filament › Filament › Volumetric speed limitation

  • Adaptive volumetric speedWith this on, the plastic-per-second cap adapts to each line by its width and the layer height, never exceeding the maximum.No
  • Max volumetric speedHow much plastic per second the nozzle can melt with this filament. The printer never asks for more, whatever the Process speeds say.21 mm³/s
  • Ramming speed (extruder change)How much plastic per second comes out during ramming before switching extruder. −1 uses the max volumetric speed.-1 mm³/s
  • Ramming speed (hotend change)How much plastic per second comes out during ramming before swapping hotend. −1 uses the max volumetric speed.-1 mm³/s

Filament › Filament › Filament scarf seam settings

Filament › Cooling › Part cooling fan

  • First layers with special fanHow many layers at the start use a separate fan speed, usually off, so the part grips the plate well.1 layers
  • Fan on the first layersThe part cooling fan speed during those first layers. At 0 it's off, so the first layer grips better.0 %
  • Full fan speed at layerFrom the first layers, the fan rises gradually and reaches its normal speed at this layer. At 0 there's no ramp: it jumps straight there.0
  • Minimum fan speedThe least the fan blows when layers take long enough to print that they cool on their own.60 %
  • Layer time to raise the fanLayers that take less than this push the fan above its minimum. The shorter the layer, the more air.80 s
  • Maximum fan speedThe part cooling fan's ceiling. It's reached on the shortest layers, which need to cool quickly.80 %
  • Minimum layer timeLayers that take less than this run the fan at maximum and, if it's on, the printer slows them down so they last at least this long.6 s
  • Keep fan always onWith this on, the fan never stops: on long layers it stays at the minimum speed instead of stopping.Yes
  • Slow down to cool layersIf a layer prints too fast to cool, the printer makes it slower. Tips and small details come out crisp instead of melted.Yes
  • Don't slow down outer wallsWhen a layer is so short it has to slow down to cool, the outer wall keeps its speed and the rest slows. It avoids bands of shine.No
  • Cooling slowdown logicWhat the printer slows down when a layer is too short: everything equally, or infill and inner walls first.Uniform cooling
  • Perimeter transition distanceOver the last millimeters of a wall slowed to cool, the speed eases back to normal before moving on to the outer wall.10 mm
  • Min print speed when slowing downThe slowest the printer can go when it slows down so a short layer can cool.20 mm/s
  • Force cooling for overhangs and bridgesRaises the fan when the nozzle prints something in the air, so it hardens before it sags.Yes
  • Cooling overhang thresholdFrom how much overhang the fan goes up to the overhang speed: the share of the line's width with nothing underneath.50%
  • Overhang threshold for participating coolingWhich overhangs count toward slowing down to cool layers, measured the same way: the share of the line's width with no support.100%
  • Fan speed for overhangsHow fast the fan runs when the nozzle prints a bridge or a wall that overhangs a lot.100 %
  • Pre-start fan timeHow many seconds before an overhang the fan starts ramping up, because it takes time to reach its speed.0 s
  • Ironing fan speedThe fan speed while the nozzle irons the top surface. At −1, it follows the rest of the layer.-1 %

Filament › Cooling › Auxiliary part cooling fan

  • First layers with special auxiliary fanHow many layers at the start use a separate speed on the auxiliary fan. On printers without that fan, like the A1, this does nothing.1 layers
  • Auxiliary fan on the first layersThe auxiliary fan speed during those first layers. On printers without that fan, like the A1, this does nothing.0 %
  • Full auxiliary fan speed at layerThe layer where the auxiliary fan reaches its speed, ramping up from the first layers. Many printers, like the A1, don't have that fan.0
  • Auxiliary fan speedHow fast the auxiliary fan blows during the print, after the first layers. Many printers, like the A1, don't have that fan.70 %

Filament › Advanced › Filament start G-code

Filament › Advanced › Filament end G-code

  • Filament end G-codeCommands the printer runs when it finishes printing with this filament.; filament end gcode

Filament › Notes › Notes

  • Filament notesA free space to note whatever you like about this filament. It doesn't change how it prints.

Filament › Multi Filament › Multi Filament

  • Flush temperatureThe temperature the nozzle purges the previous filament at on a color change. At 0, it uses the top of the recommended range.0 °C
  • Flush volumetric speedHow much plastic per second comes out when purging on a color change. At 0, the filament's max volumetric speed.0 mm³/s