The first layer doesn't grip, the nozzle drags it along, or the part comes loose halfway through the print.
It happens on any FDM printer. Setting names are Bambu Studio's: in Orca Slicer almost all have the same name, and PrusaSlicer or Cura usually have an equivalent.
Where do I start?
Two questions to sort out what to check. It's a guide, not a sure fix: every printer and every filament is different.
Check in this order
- The printerIf it printed fine yesterday and not today, it's almost never the profile. Check the plate, the nozzle and the room: printing at 15 °C is not the same as at 30 °C.
- The filamentA spool that has soaked up moisture gives strings, bubbles and brittle parts. Dry it before changing settings, and pick that filament's profile in the program.Filament pages
- The quick checksThe “First” list below: it's the fastest to check.Go to “First”
- The slicerOnly now, the settings below, in order. Change one thing, print a small test and compare. If you change three at once and it gets fixed, you won't know which one did it.Go to the settings
Check in this order
- The quick checksThe “First” list below: it's the fastest to check.Go to “First”
- The filamentA spool that has soaked up moisture gives strings, bubbles and brittle parts. Dry it before changing settings, and pick that filament's profile in the program.Filament pages
- The slicerOnly now, the settings below, in order. Change one thing, print a small test and compare. If you change three at once and it gets fixed, you won't know which one did it.Go to the settings
Check in this order
- The quick checksThe “First” list below: it's the fastest to check.Go to “First”
- The previewStep through the slicer preview layer by layer: that's where you spot missing supports and odd areas in this part.
- The slicerOnly now, the settings below, in order. Change one thing, print a small test and compare. If you change three at once and it gets fixed, you won't know which one did it.Go to the settings
First
- Wash the plate with water and dish soap.
- Check that the plate type chosen in the program is the one actually on the printer: the bed temperature depends on it.
- Watch the first few minutes. The bead should come out slightly squashed and stuck down; if it comes out round and loose, stop the print, because it won't fix itself.
Then, in the slicer (in this order)
- First layer heightProcess › QualityA slightly thicker first layer (0.25 mm) forgives an uneven plate on large, flat parts.
- Bed on the Textured PEI Plate: initial layerFilament › FilamentThe bed on the first layer, in your plate's row (PLA Basic on the textured plate: 65 °C). If the corners won't grip, raise it 5 °C.
- Initial layer speedProcess › SpeedSlower (30–40 mm/s), the plastic has time to press down and grip.
- First layer line widthProcess › QualityA wider bead (0.5 mm) puts more surface on the plate.
- Brim typeProcess › OthersIf the base is small or the part is tall, a brim gives it something to hold on with.
Tried everything and it's still the same? Calibrate your filament with the 8 tests, or write to us with a photo.