Horizontal stripes where the wall looks glossier or duller, especially with silk filaments and on parts that get narrower towards the top.
It happens on any FDM printer. Setting names are Bambu Studio's: in Orca Slicer almost all have the same name, and PrusaSlicer or Cura usually have an equivalent.
Where do I start?
Two questions to sort out what to check. It's a guide, not a sure fix: every printer and every filament is different.
Check in this order
- The printerIf it printed fine yesterday and not today, it's almost never the profile. Check the plate, the nozzle and the room: printing at 15 °C is not the same as at 30 °C.
- The filamentA spool that has soaked up moisture gives strings, bubbles and brittle parts. Dry it before changing settings, and pick that filament's profile in the program.Filament pages
- The quick checksThe “First” list below: it's the fastest to check.Go to “First”
- The slicerOnly now, the settings below, in order. Change one thing, print a small test and compare. If you change three at once and it gets fixed, you won't know which one did it.Go to the settings
Check in this order
- The quick checksThe “First” list below: it's the fastest to check.Go to “First”
- The filamentA spool that has soaked up moisture gives strings, bubbles and brittle parts. Dry it before changing settings, and pick that filament's profile in the program.Filament pages
- The testsCalibrate your filament with these tests:1Temperature
- The slicerOnly now, the settings below, in order. Change one thing, print a small test and compare. If you change three at once and it gets fixed, you won't know which one did it.Go to the settings
Check in this order
- The quick checksThe “First” list below: it's the fastest to check.Go to “First”
- The previewStep through the slicer preview layer by layer: that's where you spot missing supports and odd areas in this part.
- The slicerOnly now, the settings below, in order. Change one thing, print a small test and compare. If you change three at once and it gets fixed, you won't know which one did it.Go to the settings
First
- It's a change of speed. On short layers and on overhangs the printer slows down so the plastic can cool, and wherever the outer wall slows down the shine changes. Check the preview colored by speed: the stripes match the slow stretches.
- If you used the variable layer height tool, try without it: changing the layer height also changes the shine.
- If the part is small, put two or three on the plate: each layer takes longer and the printer doesn't have to slow down.
- If the bands remain, test the filament temperature with Calibration › Temperature.
Then, in the slicer (in this order)
- Don't slow down outer wallsFilament › CoolingFirst: keep the outer wall from slowing on short layers (off in PLA Basic). The printer slows down on the inside instead.
- Cooling slowdown logicFilament › Cooling“Consistent surface” slows infill and inner walls first. Only shown in developer mode.
- Smooth wall speed between layersProcess › QualitySmooths the wall speed from one layer to the next. It's experimental and adds time.
- Smooth speed changesProcess › QualityIf the stripes show up right where the wall starts to overhang, check that this is on.
- Outer wall speedProcess › SpeedA slower outer wall varies less from layer to layer.
Fixed by calibrating:1Temperature
Tried everything and it's still the same? Calibrate your filament with the 8 tests, or write to us with a photo.