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Materials · With some practice

PCTG

A cousin of PETG: tougher against impacts, clearer, and handles a bit more heat.

Handles impactsHandles heatFor outdoors

What changes most if you're coming from PLA:

What it's for

  • Parts that must survive knocks or drops without cracking.
  • Translucent parts or parts that will live outdoors.
  • When PETG falls short on heat.

What it's not for

  • Printing fast: its profile strongly limits how much plastic it melts per second.
  • Very fine detail: like PETG, it strings.

If you're coming from another material

  • Nozzle temperature220 °C 255 °C35 °C hotter. PCTG needs more heat to melt properly; printed like PLA, the layers don't fuse and the part breaks easily.
  • Bed temperature65 °C 70 °C5 °C hotter. A hotter bed keeps the base warm while the rest prints, so it doesn't shrink or lift at the corners.
  • Part fan60–80 % 10–40 %Less air. This material prefers to cool slowly: with lots of fan the layers bond poorly or the part cracks.
  • Max volumetric speed12 mm³/s 6 mm³/sIt melts more slowly: the profile limits how much plastic comes out per second, so the printer slows down (about 50% of PLA's flow).
  • Softens at45 °C 90 °CIt handles 45 °C more before softening: good for parts that will sit in the sun or near something hot.

What it's like to print

  • It prints much like PETG, but slower.
  • It needs very little fan.
  • It doesn't go on the cool plate: its profile doesn't recommend it.

Starting values

From Bambu Studio's generic profile for the A1: they're meant for any brand, so they're cautious. They're a starting point; the calibration tests get you to your filament's own values.

Nozzle255 °C (240–270)
Bed, textured plate70 °C
Bed, smooth plate (PEI)70 °C
Bed, cool platenot recommended
Fan10–40 %
Max flow6 mm³/s
Softens at90 °C
Hardened nozzlenot needed

Moisture

It absorbs moisture like PETG: when damp it strings and bubbles.

Drying time and temperature come from your filament's maker: every brand and blend is different, so we don't give numbers here. Look for them on the filament's label or the brand's data sheet.

The settings that change the most

  1. Max volumetric speedFilament › FilamentIt's its lowest limit: rush it and the walls come out with gaps.
  2. Maximum fan speedFilament › CoolingLittle air, so the layers stay well bonded.

Typical problems:Strings or cobwebs between partsThe part breaks or the layers split

Calibrate first:1Temperature4Max volumetric speed5Retraction

The numbers come from Bambu Studio and the A1, but the material is the same on any FDM printer: on another machine or slicer, the values are similar and everything explained here still applies.

Other materials